Sunday, May 04, 2003

in a place where the heat soars to absurd heights people need ice in their drinks. this constant need for ice presents a problem when people don’t have freezers.

the ice industry in the mekong is booming. there are small, ice works all over. normally they receive a shipment of ice early in the morning. on my way to coffee i see large blocks of water sitting on the sidewalk. the ice is long and thin and is shaped like a thick stick of gum. they are placed in square blocks five or six feet high and about as wide. they sweat and people scurry.

the blocks are then chopped into more manageable squares. they are chopped with a large, metal tool that has many long teeth and a wooden handle. it looks like a set of teeth from some deranged, robotic dog. it’s used like a hammer and the ice comes apart fairly easily.

the ice boys then take the ice on scooters to different restaurants. they drive quickly while the sun slowly eats away at their profits. when they arrive at a restaurant the ice is quickly ushered into the back where it is mashed up into smaller bits suitable for drinks. each bit is a different shape and size. they all look like diamonds and disappear quickly in your glass.

all of the ice must be delivered fairly early in the morning. the afternoon is spent cleaning up the shop and clearing out all of the pools of water that have formed in front. they scoop up this brown street water with a bucket and toss it into the road in order to evaporate quickly.

at home i didn’t have to imagine where ice came from. everyone had their own freezer and, if the need arose, you could open the door, let out a cool blast of air and grab a few pieces. a cold drink in a developing country is just one more conundrum you never really bother to think about.

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